Butcher Every morning before dawn, Luis drives his van to the huge refrigerated warehouses where meat arrives, which, hours later, will be on tables throughout the city, warehouses which are at ten or fifteen degrees below freezing to ...See moreButcher Every morning before dawn, Luis drives his van to the huge refrigerated warehouses where meat arrives, which, hours later, will be on tables throughout the city, warehouses which are at ten or fifteen degrees below freezing to preserve the meat. There, Luis chooses the pieces he will take to his butcher shop to sell in the ensuing hours. At the shop he is awaited by, Juan, his father, who passed down to him his trade and the family business. Juan has worked as a butcher for more than fifty years. He knows all the tricks of the trade, having apprenticed with legendary Mexico City butchers, a French Jew and an Italian, old school butchers who plied their trade in white shirt and tie, who knew all the European, American, and Kosher cuts. They ran La Cosmopolita, a butcher shop which exists to this day, on Calle Victoria in downtown Mexico City. They taught Juan their craft and its secrets. With skill, patience, and no small measure of luck, Juan managed to set up shop for himself in a locale he had always dreamed of. Every time he passed his gaze rested on a turn-of-the-century storefront in the Condesa District, until he succeeded in setting up shop there, with the help of good fortune and an ambitious nephew who swindled him but left the business operating.Since then, Juan has worked every day, including Sundays, and has taught his sons the craft and secrets of a professional butcher. Written by
Sergio Muñoz
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